Starting at Die Fabrik: On the trail of Kreuzberg’s rich industrial heritage
Kreuzberg is more than its clubs, kebabs, and the occasional lively demo; it is a living breathing monument to Berlin’s industrial evolution. From crumbling factories to vibrant cultural hubs, its heritage is a testament to the city’s capacity for reinvention.
For visitors, exploring Kreuzberg’s industrial heritage offers a deeper understanding of its identity. Guided tours, historical exhibitions, and simply walking along its streets can reveal layers of history and culture.
Nestled in the heart of Berlin, Kreuzberg’s factories, warehouses, and waterways tell the story of Berlin’s industrial revolution, grinding poverty, wartime resilience, and creative reinvention.
Despite its historical significance, Kreuzberg faces challenges. Gentrification has spurred debates about preserving its heritage and ensuring accessibility for all residents. As trendy bars and boutiques move into former industrial sites, the balance between respecting the past and accommodating the future is a delicate one. Pro tip; when it’s gone, it’s gone, so come while you still can.
A Glimpse into History
In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Kreuzberg was the industrial backbone of Berlin. Factories churned out goods ranging from textiles to machinery, taking advantage of the district’s proximity to the Spree River and its canal network for transportation. Workers’ tenements sprang up around these industries, shaping Kreuzberg’s urban landscape.
During World War II, Kreuzberg suffered heavy bombings, and many factories were destroyed. However, the district’s industrial character remained, even as the Cold War turned Kreuzberg into a border area in the oppressive shadow of the Berlin Wall.
Landmarks of Industrial Heritage
Today, our industrial past is visible in our architecture and repurposed spaces. For instance, that unique landscape has inspired a wave of adaptive reuse. Former factories and warehouses now house startups, coworking spaces, and cultural venues. The legendary SO36, a club deeply tied to Berlin’s punk and electronic music scenes, occupies a former industrial building, while the Künstlerhaus Bethanien, a hub for artists, thrives in a former hospital. Are there must-sees? Of course there are.
Die Fabrik Hostel Hotel: Where better to start than in our hotel? Die Fabrik (The Factory) is a latter-day restoration of the “Paul Michaelsen Telegraphen- und Telephonfabrik” which, like so many Berlin businesses, was press-ganged in to manufacturing for the Nazi war effort but was fortunately spared by the bombs and the advancing Red Army.
We have retained as many of the architectural characteristics as were practical at the time, with unique features lurking around corners and along corridors when you least expect them. To cap it all, pausing for a beer in our courtyard has much the same vibe as it ever had.
Die Eisfabrik (Ice Factory): Built in the early 20th century, this abandoned ice factory near the Spree River is a haunting reminder of the district’s industrial heyday. It once supplied ice to breweries and businesses before refrigeration technology (and bombs) rendered it obsolete.
The history nerds now based there have compiled a fascinating archive of businesses and factories in our hood which relied on Nazi forced labour.
Die Hochbahn (U-Bahn Viaduct): The elevated sections of the U1/U3 subway line are an iconic feature of Kreuzberg’s skyline. Constructed in the early 1900s, these iron viaducts reflect the engineering innovation of the era. Fans of Art Nouveau / Jugendstil industrial artistry simply need to look up – it is an absolute feast for the eyes and the soul!
Markthalle Neun: Opened in 1891, this historic market hall is a symbol of Kreuzberg’s resilience and often not easy rebirth after the long, fallow years after the war and until the wall was torn down. After decades of decline, it has been revitalized as a hub for high-quality local produce, food-based events, and community gatherings.
We took a more detailed look at the unique history of the Berlin market halls in an earlier blog post.
The Landwehr Canal and Böcklerpark: The canal once served as a vital artery for industrial transportation. The noble houses which line its banks were where the factory owners lived, the management classes were often housed in the side buildings, and the brick-built back courtyards were the production spaces.
Back in the day, these were efficient manufacturing microcosms which depended on the city’s infrastructure and the relentless toil of its working classes. Today, these spaces which, after the Wall were semi-autonomous arty spaces with banging techno parties, are now being converted in to swanky, 7-figure apartments. It was good while it lasted …
Nonetheless, this entire stretch of the canal offers a serene spot to reflect on Kreuzberg’s transformation while enjoying the greenery of Böcklerpark or on the open south bank in front of the Urban Krankenhaus hospital.
Berlinische Galerie: This modern art museum occupies a former glass warehouse, blending industrial heritage with contemporary creativity in cavernous spaces. The Berlinische Galerie’s collection focuses on art created in Berlin from 1870 to the present, featuring works from movements such as Dada Berlin, the Neue Sachlichkeit (New Objectivity), and the Eastern European avant-garde.
And there’s more, much more
Another notable industrial site in Berlin is the former East Germany’s military-industrial complex. This complex, which includes factories, warehouses, and other infrastructure, was built during the Cold War era and played a crucial role in the production of military equipment and supplies. Since the wall came down, many of these sites have been also repurposed, serving as museums, cultural centres, and ever more swanky apartments. (Won’t somebody think of the app developers?)
However, Berlin in not without its challenges, including the lack of resources from a government which seems far more interested in building a motorway which nobody wants for SUVs which everybody hates. Plus, there is a dearth of the expertise needed to preserve and maintain these sites. Many institutions, such as museums and archives, struggle to provide the necessary infrastructure and human resources to digitize and showcase their collections, leading to a lack of sustainable digital resources.
Overall, Berlin’s industrial heritage is a vital part of the city’s cultural and historical identity, offering a unique perspective on its development and growth. Efforts to preserve and showcase these sites are essential to maintaining this heritage for future generations.
A final word
Berlin is part of the European Route of Industrial Heritage (ERIH), which is a network that highlights the most important industrial heritage sites across Europe. Rabbit Hole alert; Berlin is heavily featured on their website with a mine of meticulously researched information.
Would you prefer more bite-sized info about specific sites or the history of a particular industry in Berlin? Visit Berlin is where you need to be.
Images: Generously made available by Unsplash and Wiki Commons
